A cherry blossom sea bream topped off with daikon and a gelée of roasted bones sat in a bowl that playfully emulated a cherry blossom and greeted me at the bottom with a meticulously crafted impression of a convolution. The course that came right after was a live scallop draped over smoked avocado and trumpet lilies and finished off with drops of pique, a fermented pineapple condiment. Just like a natural pearl found in the ocean, it lay above a glimmering mollusc shell and tasted just as smooth.
This evening, every piece of tableware that lay before me seemed to emulate nature in one form or another, yet at the same time they had a very stately quality to it. But at the end of the day, these subtleties were simply just the supporting acts to the night’s main performance.
That’s right ladies and gentlemen, from start to finish, every course that came out of the bright lights of the Saison open kitchen stage onto my table, was a masterful performance of ulterior flavours and pure sublimity that kept me on the edge of my seat the entire meal.